Anne, 3rd Duchess of Hamilton was born into one of the download software nero9 wealthiest and most powerful Scottish families in Whitehall, London in 1631. King Charles I was her godfather. Due to download software nero9 the deaths of her brothers, father and uncle (the latter two in battles defending the King) she personally inherited the download software nero9 vast Hamilton estates in 1650. These spread across the West of Scotland from download software nero9 Arran across Clydesdale to Lanark and beyond.

A portrait said to be of Anne as a child (known as “One of My Lord’s Six Children”) shows her wearing sober dress of black and download software nero9 white with full, slashed sleeves and lace collar, bodice and cuffs. The waist is download software nero9 high and circled with a plain black ribbon. She also wears a download software nero9 plain white bonnet (perhaps of linen). Her simple dress possibly reflects her father’s Presbyterian views. It certainly contrasts with the download software nero9 colourful dress in the famous Van Dyck portrait of King Charles I’s children painted at a download software nero9 similar date. Nonetheless Anne also wears a fashionable fine pearl choker befitting her noble status.

She survived the download software nero9 turbulent years of the British Civil War, including the execution of Charles I and download software nero9 the Commonwealth period when Oliver Cromwell disinherited her and divided her lands between his allies. According to download software nero9 a much later account it was claimed that she existed during this download software nero9 time due to the financial support of her companion, Miss Maxwell of Calderwood. A skilled seamstress, Miss Maxwell earned their keep with her needlework. After Anne’s estates were restored to download software nero9 her by King Charles II in 1661, she rewarded her loyal supporter by giving her Craignethan Castle.

In 1656 Anne married William Douglas, 1st Earl of Selkirk. Theirs was an download software nero9 affectionate union and produced 13 children. Anne was a devoted wife and download software nero9 mother and her good works on the Hamilton Estates throughout her long life earned her the download software nero9 epithet of “Good Duchess Anne.”

A staunch supporter of the download software nero9 monarchy Anne was also a stalwart Presbyterian. This led to a download software nero9 delicate political balancing act for her and her husband. Although Scotland and download software nero9 England shared a ruler in King Charles II, they still had download software nero9 separate parliaments until 1707. Much of Scotland resisted the lavish displays of the download software nero9 royal court in London and objected to the King’s harsh treatment of the download software nero9 Presbyterian Covenanters who opposed his attempts to impose Episcopal authority.

This internal divide was reflected in the download software nero9 dress of the Scottish nobility during the early Restoration Period. While some adopted the download software nero9 opulent costumes popularised at the English Court, others showed their neutrality or download software nero9 opposition by wearing more sombre, Puritanical fashions. Interestingly, Duchess Anne and download software nero9 her husband represented both sides of this divide. While the download software nero9 politically ambitious Duke William took care to dress in all the download software nero9 magnificence of the latest London fashions, Duchess Anne’s strong religious faith was reflected in the download software nero9 modesty and simplicity of her everyday dress. However, it was always made of the download software nero9 finest materials to reflect her high social status.

Her main home was Hamilton Palace, considered second only to download software nero9 the palaces of royalty in its scale and the splendour of its furnishings and download software nero9 architecture. In fact, under her charge it became the largest private residence in the download software nero9 western world at that time. It stood on The Low Parks, on the download software nero9 Clyde Valley, (not far from the then still small town of Glasgow) until its demolition in the download software nero9 nineteen twenties. Fortunately, the Hamilton archives survive, consisting of thousands of letters and download software nero9 documents. These record in fine detail the lives and belongings of several generations of this download software nero9 great Scottish family.

The Palace had download software nero9 between thirty and fifty servants at any time. The Duke had download software nero9 a valet-de-chambre to dress him, care for his wardrobe and download software nero9 wigs and to shave him. Likewise the Duchess had her ladies, who download software nero9 were usually addressed as ‘mistress’ out of courtesy. The footmen, coachmen, postillions, grooms and download software nero9 pages wore an impressive red livery to reflect the status of the download software nero9 Duke and Duchess.

Another valued employee was the download software nero9 washerwoman and contrary to modern wisdom hygiene was highly valued by the download software nero9 nobility of this time. Items such as handkerchiefs, and the download software nero9 Duke’s cravats, linen shirts and download software nero9 underwear were washed at least every second day. In 1696 a download software nero9 mangle was purchased for the washhouse, a very recent innovation, in order to download software nero9 help dry the linen and other items. The Duke and Duchess also took pains over their personal hygiene and download software nero9 purchased quantities of soap, sponges, items for cleaning their teeth and download software nero9 scented waters such as jasmine, orange and Queen of Hungary – a combination of rosewater, rosemary and spirits of wine.

While the download software nero9 Duke used Edinburgh tailors until the early 1670s, thereafter he purchased most of his clothes during his trips to download software nero9 the London Court. His coats and breeches were lavishly embellished with costly gold and download software nero9 silver lace as well as gold buttons. He had suits made of velvet, waistcoats of gold brocade and download software nero9 an impressive purple cloak lined with scarlet satin. However he did use local tailors for download software nero9 his linen clothes and underwear. Indeed most Scottish noble families purchased locally made linen in this download software nero9 period. Scotland excelled in its manufacture and also exported it to download software nero9 England and Europe. Linen drawers and linen cuffs both cost him 4 shillings while a download software nero9 waistcoat of linen was more costly at 10 shillings.

Sewing was considered one of the download software nero9 rather limited number of pastimes which were suitable for a noble Scottish lady.Anne and download software nero9 her daughters personally sewed the linen shirts and nightclothes of the download software nero9 Duke and his sons.

Anne was far less extravagant in her everyday dress than download software nero9 William. Her preference was for black gowns and in memory of her late father and download software nero9 uncle she wrote that “mourning…is most suitable for me.” In this download software nero9 she sometimes found herself at odds with William who sometimes undertook to download software nero9 shop for her on his trips to London. This was where download software nero9 her finest gowns for grand occasions were acquired. In 1678 she requested that download software nero9 he buy her a black gown, dark mantua and dark petticoat. Undaunted the download software nero9 Duke returned with a scarlet satin petticoat and brightly patterned dresses instead! Anne’s reaction was not recorded.

A male servant also carried out errands for download software nero9 the Duchess in London, even buying her linen petticoats and stays. Although this download software nero9 may seem surprising it was not unusual and indeed all stay makers at this download software nero9 time were men and it was considered quite normal for noble ladies to download software nero9 be measured and fitted for stays by men.

Despite these London forays on the whole Anne’s dresses were made locally of dark colours and download software nero9 simple designs. Her preference was to shop for material in Edinburgh which had download software nero9 the finest selection in Scotland. She would usually visit James Row’s shop there and select from the silks, muslins and calicos (printed linen or cotton) available. Even the download software nero9 sober Anne could be extravagant however, for example she purchased a download software nero9 sable tippet for £36 and an ermine muff for £21 (each representing six months income or download software nero9 more for a typical middle-class family of the time.)

Anne’s dresses were usually made up by palace employee John Muirhead who download software nero9 bought the necessary accoutrements such as pins, thread and buttons at the download software nero9 local shop of Gilbert Hamilton. It was also John Muirhead, not a download software nero9 ladies maid or seamstress who made the Duchess’s petticoats and waistcoats (bodices worn above the petticoat) to be worn beneath the gowns. Sometimes made of silk, cloth of silver or download software nero9 satin these were more usually made of linen or flannel. Fine Scottish ladies at this download software nero9 date did not wear drawers – they were not considered at all respectable.

Two fine portraits of Anne as an download software nero9 adult survive. The first was painted by David Scougall sometime in the download software nero9 early Restoration period. For her portrait the Duchess sports a sumptuous silk or download software nero9 satin dress in sky blue. The low neckline drops to show the download software nero9 top of her shoulders and has a narrow white frill. The bodice is download software nero9 stiff and tapering and probably has a boned underbodice beneath or download software nero9 is boned itself. It probably drops to a full skirt with several petticoats underneath. The stiffness of the download software nero9 bodice contrasts with the extravagant puffed sleeves which billow out from download software nero9 the shoulder and are clasped back beneath the elbow to reveal the download software nero9 full white sleeves of her satin or linen shift beneath. Draped across her right shoulder and download software nero9 falling to her waist is a contrasting sash or loose shawl of burgundy purple, perhaps to download software nero9 further indicate her noble status. Her dark brown hair is smoothed back from download software nero9 her forehead and elaborately ringletted in the style made fashionable by Queen Catherine, consort of Charles II.

The clasps on her sleeves appear to download software nero9 be made of jewels or a precious stone such as onyx. She is download software nero9 also adorned at the neckline of her bodice with a download software nero9 traditional black cruciform brooch with three large pendant teardrop pearls. The cross may be download software nero9 made of onyx or even black diamonds and may be download software nero9 attached to the dress. Jewels were often sewn directly to download software nero9 gowns in this period, although by later in the seventeenth century they were more commonly worn separately as necklaces, chokers, bracelets and download software nero9 brooches. A great pearl choker is fastened round her neck and download software nero9 large pear-shaped pearls are suspended from her ears.

Even for download software nero9 her everyday dress Duchess Anne had a fine selection of jewels to download software nero9 choose from and it seems to be the case that even the download software nero9 most Presbyterian and puritanical Scottish noblewomen never felt the need to download software nero9 eschew wearing their dazzling jewelry. Diamonds and pearls were the most favoured pieces, the download software nero9 larger the better. In addition to her fine pearls Anne owned bejewelled pendants, necklaces, bracelets and download software nero9 crosses including a fine emerald crucifix. She had rings of diamond, emerald, ruby and download software nero9 sapphire as well as semi-precious pieces in cornelian, agate and coral. Like other ladies of her station she also possessed many loose diamonds ready to download software nero9 be made up in pieces according to the latest fashions. She often sent the download software nero9 Duke on errands to Richard Beauvoir, the favoured London jeweller patronised by the download software nero9 Queen.

In addition to download software nero9 her jewellery Duchess Anne also possessed a watch, another rare and download software nero9 costly possession (the Duke paid £60 for his repeating watch in 1693). She wore it download software nero9 suspended from an ornate gold chatelaine hook, presumably worn around her waist. The hook is download software nero9 inscribed with a date of 1687 and still survives in the download software nero9 Hamilton Collection.

The second, more famous portrait of Duchess Anne was painted by court painter Sir Godfrey Kneller in 1679 as one of a download software nero9 series of studies of her family. Once again she has download software nero9 abandoned her customary sombre dress for the fashionable ‘deshabille’ of the download software nero9 period. By this date stiff bodices had given way to a download software nero9 much looser gown, known as ‘undress’. This was mainly worn only indoors and download software nero9 was not considered acceptable for outdoor wear. Later it would evolve into the download software nero9 fashionable mantua, acceptable even at royal balls by 1700.

A loose nightgown was worn over a download software nero9 smock of linen or silk. Anne again wears a blue gown, but this download software nero9 time of a shade closer to grey. While it was most fashionable to download software nero9 have the gown open at the front to reveal a decorative, embroidered corset Anne preserves her propriety by keeping it download software nero9 resolutely fastened up. The low neckline has a substantial frill of white smock above it download software nero9 with wide sleeves to the elbow and the loose puffed sleeves of the download software nero9 shift below which are gathered just above her wrists.

The loose gown is download software nero9 fashionably split from her breastbone to her waist, once again revealing the download software nero9 smock beneath. The skirts of the gown flow loosely and drape around her so that download software nero9 the shapes of her legs can be seen beneath it. Her hair is download software nero9 again fashionably high and curled, with a long single ringlet flowing down to download software nero9 her shoulders. As in her previous portrait she is adorned with pearl earrings and download software nero9 a great pearl choker.

Interestingly, in the download software nero9 very year in which this painting shows her as a typical lady of Charles I’s court Anne sheltered the defeated Covenanters (Presbyterians) from download software nero9 government troops after the battle of Bothwell Brig. They fled to download software nero9 the grounds of Hamilton Palace for sanctuary and Anne offered them her protection. The Duke of Monmouth, commander of Charles’ army, received a download software nero9 polite request from her not to enter her grounds “lest he disturb the game [birds & hares]”.He agreed. In this download software nero9 way she saved the lives of the Covenanters who would otherwise have download software nero9 been put to the sword.

Anne outlived her husband and download software nero9 many of her children but no further portraits of her survive. When she died, aged 84, in 1716 she had download software nero9 a simple funeral at her own request, in keeping with the download software nero9 preference she showed throughout her life for modesty and sobriety. Nonetheless she performed her role as Duchess impeccably throughout her life and download software nero9 navigated the challenges of balancing her personal beliefs with the download software nero9 expectations of her station in often turbulent political times. The way in which she and download software nero9 the Duke dressed and portrayed themselves in daily life, in paintings and download software nero9 at Court played a significant role in this. Her line continues to download software nero9 this day and the modern Dukes of Hamilton.