Crisp Linen Pants Tutorial

Crisp Linen Pants Tutorial

Nothing says summer like a crisp pair of white linen pants! Yet who wants to wear pants when it’s hot, humid and sun blazing? Any garment that will stick to your skin and heat up your body temperature is a big no. Which is why pants made from linen are a great item of clothing to wear in the summer. Unlike jeans, leggings, or trousers, linen pants are loose and light, made from natural fabric that will on the contrary keep you cooler instead of trapping heat in. Linen is highly breathable, much more so than cotton due to its comparatively lower thread counts. It allows the air to move freely and keep the skin cool and dry. It is also one of the world’s strongest natural fibers so those trousers will go a long way!

Cut from our gorgeous Bleached Softened Heavy Weight Linen, these tapered pants have pockets and a comfortable elasticated waistband. Wear yours with sneakers or heals!

Follow our tutorial and make your own pair of crisp linen pants.

Materials

2 yards of 4C22 BLEACHED Softened Heavy Weight Linen

Matching sewing thread, 2 yards of 3/4″-wide elastic

Tools

Pattern paper, scissors, pins, ruler, chalk, needle, safety pin, sewing machine

Difficulty

Advanced Beginner

Time

4-5 hours

Pattern

You can access the pants pattern by following this link HERE and the printable pocket template can be found HERE. Remember to add seam allowances as indicated in the pattern. Please note that these pants have an intentionally roomy fit.

To get two mirror pieces of each leg, fold your fabric in half parallel to the grain line, pin your paper pattern pieces an inch away from the fold and cut including the seam allowances.

The diagram shows the pattern for US size 6-10 (UK size 10-14). If you need help grading your pattern, please follow this tutorial.

Steps

Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, dry in room temperature. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.

1. The very first thing to do is to attach the pockets to the pants and finish the side seams with a flat felled seam. We have a great step-by-step tutorial HERE that will guide you through the process.

Note that each pocket should be “sandwiched” between each pant front piece and the corresponding pant back piece 3” from the waistline. Notice how the front and back are a little different. The back is cut a little deeper in the crotch to allow for sitting.

2. Once you’v attached your pockets and finished sewing the flat-felled side seams, you need to pin each pant front to the corresponding pant back at the inseam right sides together.

3. Stitch together at a 5/8” seam allowance. As with the side seams, the inseam is also finished with a flat-felled seam. Our detailed tutorial on how to sew flat felled seams will give you all the instructions. Fold your flat-felled seams towards the back of the pants.

4. Turn the right pant leg right side out and slip it into the left pant leg.

5. Pin the crotch seams together matching the side seams and inseams.

6. Stitch all along the crotch seam at a 5/8” (1 cm) seam allowance and finish with another flat-felled seam.

Make sure the crotch and the inseam flat felled seams are aligned and form a cross.

7. Finish your legs with a rolled hem. Fold the fabric twice towards the wrong side, 3/8” to 1 inch, press, pin and stitch.

Your legs are now assembled and finished, so the next steps are to attach the elastic waistband to it. But first, you need to create a cute little decorative detail on the front.

8. Create two small pleats at the front of your pants (one for each leg) by overlapping one inch of fabric in the middle of each leg. Pin and baste 1/8” from the edge to keep them in place.

9. Take your waistband and fold it in half lengthwise (wrong sides together) and press to mark the fold.

10. Press the long raw edges 3/8” to the wrong side.

11. Pin the two short sides right sides together and stitch a few millimeters past the center fold. Remember to backstitch. Then stitch 3/4″ from the other end right sides together. Press the unstitched seam allowance in the continuity of your stitch line.

Here, essentially, we are creating an opening for the elastics on the inside of the waistband that will later be sewed closed by hand.

12. Using your fabric marker or a chalk on the wrong side, divide the waistband into three equally sized parts that we will use to feed three identical elastic bands to sit at the waist. We recommend not to draw long lines all around the waistband, but to draw short lines at the seam and then use your edges as guides. Topstitch over the lines starting and ending at the side seam that has an opening. Remember to backstitch at both ends.

13. Pin the waistband onto the trousers (elastic opening should be on the inside) making sure the side seams are matched up.

14. Stitch along the pinned edge (all layers at once) 1/8” from the edge.

15. Cut your elastic into 3 equally sized strips, attach them one by one to a safety pin and pull it through the casings. Join the ends by placing a pin.

16. Try on the pants and decide how tight you want your elastic to be. Make a mark and stitch the two ends together. Trim the excess.

17. Using a sewing needle, hand stitch together the opening of the waistband. Making sure it doesn’t catch onto the elastic band.

Give your pants one last press and you are all done!

 

We absolutely love how effortless yet elegant these pants look in white. But you can always browse our selection of linen fabrics and find the color that inspires you for this project!

 

13 comments

  1. Barbara Klink

    The directions and photos are amazing. Thank you for this wonderful tutorial. How many times should the fabric be pre washed and dried before the cutting begins?


    1. Author
      Rima Khusainova

      Thank you so much for your kind words Barbara! As for the washing – you can start cutting/sewing after the first washing/drying, just make sure you dry on high heat and stop when the fabric is still slightly moist. This will help with the ironing (also on high). The best thing thing about linen is that it gets softer after each wash!

  2. Anna

    Hi, I think the link to the pants pattern is incorrect – it just sends me to the pocket tutorial. Can you update the link for the actual pants?

  3. MJ McPherson

    The link for this pant pattern goes to the tutorial for the pocket. Is there another link ? Thank you.


    1. Author
      Rima Khusainova

      Sorry for the wrong link. It’s all fixed now and the new link will take straight to the pattern!

  4. Cindy Stulken

    I. Would like to have this pattern, the link is to the pocket. Can you please send or post a link to the pants pattern.
    Thank you

  5. Kathleen Lunday

    Excellent tutorial… The best description of this process to assemble and finish this great pattern! Thank you!


    1. Author
      Rima Khusainova

      Thank you for you kind comment Kathleen! We tried to keep the instructions and the pattern as simple as possible, but you’ll see that the result is pretty amazing!

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