Crisp Linen Shirt Tutorial

Crisp Linen Shirt Tutorial

Dreaming of spring on these cold winter days? Why not bring a little vernal touch with this delicate blush pink linen shirt?

We love the way this minimalist shirt combines a feminine silhouette with design details like a mandarin collar and vintage ivory buttons while the cargo patch pockets on the front create a catchy counterbalance with a hint of military influence. A perfect wardrobe piece for a modern woman!

Materials

1.5 yards of IL042 894 – FS Premier Finish – 100% Medium Weight Linen

Matching sewing thread, 7-8 buttons, fusible interfacing (for the collar and the button bands)

Tools

Pattern paper, pen, fabric marker, scissors, pins, seam ripper, chalk, ruler, buttonhole foot, needle, sewing machine

Time

4-5 hours

Difficulty

Advanced Beginner

Pattern

You can access the shirt pattern by following this link HERE. Remember to add seam allowances as indicated in the pattern.

The diagram shows the pattern for US size 6-8 (UK size 10-12). If you need help grading your pattern, please follow this tutorial.

For the mandarin collar, draw your own pattern following the instructions in THIS tutorial.

Steps

Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, dry in room temperature. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.

1. Let’s start with the button bands. First you’ll need to apply the fusible interfacing to the wrong sides of your front pieces 3/8” (1 cm) from the raw edge.

2. Fold the non-interfaced 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance to the wrong side and press.

3. Fold 1″ (2,5 cm) of fabric to the wrong side so all raw edges are concealed inside the button band. Press and pin.

4. Stitch as close to the folded edge as possible (remember to backstitch). Press the finished button bands to ensure the fabric sits flat.

Repeat with the other button band.

5. It’s time to attach the cargo patch pockets to the front of your shirt. We have a great tutorial HERE that explains how to do it.

Place your pockets 2,25 “ (5,5 cm) from the button band outer edge and 3,5” (9 cm) from the bottom hem.

Topstitch in place:

6. Pin the front and the back of your shirt right sides together at the shoulders.

7. Sew the shoulder seams right sides together at 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance, remember to backstitch. Trim the seam allowance down to 1/4″ (6 mm) and serge or zigzag the raw edges together to prevent the fabric from fraying. Press the seams flat folding the serged/zigzagged edges towards the back of your shirt.

8. Attach the mandarin collar following our detailed tutorial HERE.

9. Pin the sleeves to the armholes right sides together.

10. Sew at a 3/8’’ (1 cm) seam allowance. Serge or zigzag the raw edges together to prevent the fabric from fraying. Press the serged/zigzagged seam allowances up towards the sleeves.

11. Pin the sleeves and the side seams right sides together.

12. Sew the pinned edges at a 3/8’’ (1 cm) seam allowance and finish the raw edges with a serger or a zigzag stitch.

Press the seams flat folding the serged/zigzagged edges towards the back of your shirt.

13. Finish the sleeve openings with a rolled hem. Fold the fabric twice towards the wrong side, 3/8” (1 cm)  to 1/2 inch (1,3 cm), press, pin and stitch.

14. Finish the bottom hem the same way you finished the sleeves: fold the fabric twice towards the wrong side, 3/8” (1 cm) to 1/2 inch (1,3 cm), press and pin. Make sure the two button bands match. The best way to do so is to overlap and pin the two button bands together and then start folding the fabric from where they meet at the bottom.

15. Stitch as close to the folded edge as possible to finish the bottom hem.

16. Lastly, sew the buttonholes and attach the buttons.

For the buttonholes, you can follow our detailed tutorial HERE. As for the buttons, check our tutorial HERE for instructions.

The number and the spacing are really up to you. If you want your buttons closer, just leave smaller gaps between them. We decided to space our buttons 2,5” (6 cm) apart. Overlap the shirt and place a pin into the center of each buttonhole. This is where you’ll need to attach the buttons.

Give your shirt a good press and you are all done!

Why not check out all the other colours we have and play around with all the possibilities you can find? Remember that you can always add a personal touch to this shirt by using a contrasting colour for the patch pockets.

20 comments

  1. Joyce Langevin

    Thank you for this shirt pattern. I am looking forward to making the pattern, but cannot find the Part 2 Section which shows how to add the darts for the bust line. I don’t know how to allow for the extra material needed.

  2. Christine

    I just want to say THANK YOU for all the time it took to put this pattern and instructions together… for FREE!! And after reading some of the comments… remember what Doris Day once said, Gratitude is riches. Complaint is poverty. Merry Christmas!

  3. Cynthia Martin

    Cute shirt. I love crisp linen shirts. Pattern seems pretty straightforward and easy to recreate. However, I’m wondering why you chose to lap the button placket with left over right. Personal choice? I was taught this little adage many, many years ago, “Women are alway RIGHT; men are LEFT over.” To help remember which way shirts should lap.


    1. Author
      Rima Khusainova

      Hi Cynthia and thank you for the comment! Yes, of course you are right – women’s shirts overlap to the right but I made a mistake when started sewing buttonholes and it was too late to change when I noticed. So sorry about the confusion. I’d say it’s not that important nowadays but the tradition does put women’s buttons on the left and buttonholes on the right.

  4. Jane Bordzol

    Why in heaven’s name do you insist on posting pictures in your tutorial that are impossible to see. This picture, a white linen blouse against a very light background makes it impossible for me to decide if I even like the pattern. Use some common sense please; white/light against darker backgrounds!

  5. jane

    How about a linen shirt for REAL women? This model is flat as a pancake and needs no darts at all. It just won’t work for me or anyone I know. I love the linen and the shirt, but please make it work for us.

    1. G. A. Lawrence

      You know for someone whom is put on weight but doesn’t need the darts, your comment bothers me. I am a REAL woman but if I don’t need darts, I am not? Not everyone has lots of boobs.

  6. Judith Janes

    I know my vision isn’t what it used to be, but I find that your photographs accompanying your tutorials are not helpful. Either they show few details of the clothing that the tutorial is supposed to help you make, or the model is photographed from such an angle that the neckline or some other essential detail is not visible. The photos today show no details at all! Is that a placket on the front? Who can tell? If you want people to order your fabrics and actually sew one of your tutorial items, it would seem that you would make the layouts more customer-friendly. Perhaps a sketch showing the clothing details would help, as is shown on the back of most clothing pattern envelopes.


    1. Author
      Rima Khusainova

      Dear Judith, you can find the pattern/sketch by following the link in the “Pattern” section. As for the front – it is finished with simple button bands rolled up twice and stitched in place. Hope this helps!

  7. Trevor Murch-Lempinen

    what a great pattern… thanks for the generosity folks… much appreciated in this day and age!

    what I would love to see is a guys 3 button front, collared, pull-over shirt pattern that I can make in a nice natural linen as a work (as in non-dress) shirt with simple un-fussy detailing… not a tall order at all 🙂

    cheers from Down Under and, again,thanks
    Trevor


    1. Author
      Rima Khusainova

      Dear Trevor! Thank you very much for your comment and kind words! We’ll see what we can about about your request 🙂

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