A Mandarin collar is a type of stand-up collar with Asian influence that is often used in shirt or dress making. This simple patternmaking staple can add a completely different, more sophisticated look to your outfits.
With this tutorial, we are going to show you how to draft and sew a Mandarin collar to your clothing in order to create a whole new look and add a touch of style to your wardrobe.
Fabric of your choice (we are using our IL042 907 Premier Finish Medium Weight Linen)
Matching sewing thread, fusible interfacing
Pattern paper, pen, scissors, ruler, measuring tape, pins, fabric marker, chalk, sewing machine.
If you are working with a pattern featuring a Mandarin collar, it would give you all the measurements and cutting instructions. But even if your pattern doesn’t call for a Mandarin collar and you would like to add one, you can easily draft your own pattern in just a few easy steps and add it to any neckline. All you’ll need is the neckline measurements of the garment you’re about to collar-ize.
Here’s a diagram that illustrates what you have to do in order to draft your own pattern:
1. Measure your entire neckline and draw a rectangle that is the length of the full neck measurement and the full desired collar depth. Ours was 18,75 in long and 1 inch deep.
2. Curve the outer edges.
3. Mark the center back in the middle of your rectangle and divide the space on the left and on the right from this line into three equal sections.
4. Cut all the lines (except the center back line) from the top to approximately 1-2 mm to the bottom.
5. Overlap each section at the top by 0.5cm.
6. Trace the new shape to obtain your collar pattern.
7. Add 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance around all panels and cut 2 pieces from fabric. Cut one piece from interfacing but do not add seam allowances.
Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, let this dry in room temperature. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.
1. Start by applying the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of one of the collar stands.
2. With right sides together align the interfaced and non interfaced collar stands and pin.
3. Stitch around the curved (upper) edge but stop 1/4” before each end.
Trim the seam allowance to 1/4” and make a few notches when you reach the curved ends to release the tension.
4. Press the seam open. Finger press the curves, as it might be a bit difficult to get there with an iron.
5. Press the raw edge of the non-interfaced collar stand 3/8” (1 cm) towards the wrong side.
6. Turn the collar right side out and press again.
7. Staystitch the entire neckline of your garment 1/4″ from the raw edge to stabilize it.
8. Pin the interfaced collar stand to the neckline right sides together. Use plenty of pins to make sure it sits well.
9. Sew together at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Trim to 1/4″.
10. Working from the right side, press the collar away from your garment folding the raw seam allowance towards the collar.
11. Take the other collar stand that has the interfacing and the pressed seam allowance and fold it over to the inside of your garment enclosing all the raw edges. The folded edge should go a little pass the stitch line that we’ve just created. Pin in place.
12. Working from the right side of your garment, topstitch the collar in the crease to attach the back section.
Give your collar a last good press and you are all done!