Linen Morocco inspired Pants Tutorial

Linen Morocco inspired Pants Tutorial

back front

Comfortable and feminine­—these Moroccan style striped pants are a dream to wear out or alternatively guaranteed to become your perfect pyjama pair. Cut from our beautiful Premier Finish 100% linen, they are very smooth, breathable and soft to the touch featuring a loose-fitting, slightly cropped style with an elasticated back section on the waistband and a flat front. Such a great design that would fit perfectly on every shape.

It is also a perfect beginner sewing project. These pants are so quick and easy to make that you’ll probably wonder why you ever were so afraid of sewing pants!

Materials

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2 yards of IL042 899 – FS Premier Finish – 100% Linen – Middle Weight

Matching sewing thread, 1 yard of 1”- (2.5 cm-) wide elastic

Tools

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Pattern paper, scissors, pins, ruler, chalk, safety pin, sewing machine

Time

2-3 hours

Difficulty

Beginner

Pattern

You can access the dress pattern by following this link HERE. Remember to add seam allowances as indicated in the pattern. Please note that these pants have an intentionally roomy fit.

To get two mirror pieces of each leg, fold your fabric in half parallel to the grain line, pin your paper pattern pieces an inch away from the fold and cut including the seam allowances.

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The diagram shows the pattern for US size 6-8 (UK size 10-12). If you need help grading your pattern, please follow this tutorial.

Steps

Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, dry in room temperature. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.

1. With right sides together, pin each pant front piece to the corresponding pant back at the side seam. Notice how the front and back are a little different. The back is cut a little deeper in the crotch to allow for sitting.

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2. Stitch the pinned edges at the side seam together for both left and right legs at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance.

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3. Serge or zigzag the raw edges together to prevent the fabric from fraying.

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4. Press the seams flat folding the serged/zigzagged edges towards the back of the pant.

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5. Repeat the same steps for the inseam edges. With right sides together, pin each pant front to the corresponding pant back at the inseam.

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6. Stitch the pinned edges together at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Serge or zigzag the raw edges together to prevent the fabric from fraying. Press the seams flat folding the serged/zigzagged edges towards the back of the pant.

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7. Turn the right pant leg right side out and slip it into the left pant leg.

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8. Pin the crotch seams together matching the side seams and inseams.

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9. Sew all along the crotch seam at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance.

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10. Serge or zigzag the raw edges together and press the seam flat.

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Here’s what your pants look like from the right side at this point:

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11. Now that you have assembled the legs together (this is what your pants look like at this stage), you can form the casing for the elastic waistband. To do this, fold the upper edge 2” (5 cm) towards the inside (wrong side) and press. Then fold the raw edge again 3/8” (1 cm) towards the inside, press and pin.

 

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12. The pants feature a flat front in order to avoid excessive bulk in the area and as a nice decorative element. Using your ruler, measure 3,5” on each side from the center seam and make marks (use a pin or a fabric marker). This section will not be elasticated.

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13. Topstitch as close to the lower fold as possible, from the casing mark at the left side to the casing mark on the right side. Remember to backstitch at both ends.

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14. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and pull it through the casing.

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15. Stitch one end of the elastic in place (from the upper edge to the bottom of the casing mark). Backstitch to reinforce. Trim the excess of the elastic. Try on the pants and decide how tight you want your elastic to be. Make a mark and stitch the other end of the elastic along the second casing mark. Trim the excess.

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16. Close the opening by topstitching the lower edge of the flat casing.

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Your waistband is now finished.

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17. The final steps will be to hem your pants. Fold the bottom edge under first 3/8” (1 cm) then another 1/2″ (1.25 cm) and press. Pin the fold.

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18. Topstitch as close to the inner fold as possible. Remember to backstitch and press the seams.

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Et voila! In just a few easy steps and a couple of hours of your time you have a pair of comfy pants that you wouldn’t want to take off!

Have a browse through our selection of linen and see which of our fabrics inspire you for this project. Stripes, plaids, florals or simply monochrome, we have it all!

 

 

 

 

15 comments

  1. Carol Green

    Rima, you mentioned these are “pretty low rise” so I’m wondering what the rise measurement is? I’m older and a bit rounder so I like a mid rise, or a waistband fairly close to or at the navel. About how much should I add to the waist to get it up to that point?” I love this pattern and am excited to make these with pockets. I cant wait to get started on a muslin mock up. I have a feeling I’ll be making a lot of these!

    1. Rima Khusainova

      Dear Carol, thanks so much for your comment and kind words! So yes, these pants are what you’d call “low-rise” and they sit a couple of inches below the belly button. The crotch measurement is 11″ for the back and 10.5″ for the front. It’s hard for me to say how much exactly you should add as I don’t know your measurements etc, but the way best way for you to find out would be to take a pair of your favorite loose-fit pants and measure the crotch at the front and at the back, and then use these measurements to alter the pattern. Just be mindful of the elastic and keep in mind that you should add additional 1.5″ for the elastic casing + the required seam allowances. Hope this helps!

      1. Carol Green

        Thank you for the suggestion! I’m a little stuck with trying to grade the pattern up. Your grading tutorial is for tops, so it can’t be used to grade pants. I hope you will consider offering a multi-size pattern for this pant, and/or a tutorial for grading pants. I (as many others) love the simple pull-on style of tops, pants, and dresses, so your patterns are very much appreciated! Please keep up the good work! Without these patterns and tutorials, I would not have bought all the linen I’ve received lately! LOL

        1. Carol Green

          I found the multi-size pattern! Time to print it off and get busy! I have 6 pieces of linen arriving tomorrow for tops and pants! I LOVE your tutorials! Thank you so much!!!

  2. Mary M

    I’m new here and I’m so impressed! You have great patterns and lovely fabric. Thanks for offering free patterns. I know they took work to design.

  3. Brenda Pierson

    I am slightly confused by the instructions, and though I am able to decipher what I’m pretty sure is the method, it might be helpful to clarify the waistband instructions slightly. Am I to assume that you sew down the waistband in the front, and then insert the ends of the elastic into the front slightly so it is secure? I am trying to discern how the front stays completely flat when the next photo shows the elastic being place all around the waistband. Do you see my question? Can you explain this portion slightly better for beginners and dense folks (like me)? Thanks!

    These are such cute pants!


    1. Author
      Rima Khusainova

      Hi Brenda, sorry if the instructions are not very clear. So what you need to do first is to turn the waistband section to the inside of your pants and topstitch close to the lower fold, from the front casing mark at the left side to the front casing mark on the right side. So basically you leave 3,5″ on each side of the center front of your pants unstitched. Then you pull the elastic through the casing and secure it at one of the flat casing’s ends so that it doesn’t move: topstitch the elastic vertically from the top of the waistband section to the bottom edge and cut the excess of the elastic. Then try your pants on, adjust the width and pull the other, free end of your elastic at the other end of the casing and topstitch vertically again. And lastly, topstitch the lower edge of the casing at the pants front to close the opening and you’ll get your flat front and elasticated back. Hope this helps!

  4. Stacy

    If I wanted to add a pocket to these pants how far down from the waist band would I measure. I think this would be a great addition to the pattern! I have to have pockets!


    1. Author
      Rima Khusainova

      Dear Stacy, it’s a great idea to add pockets to these pants! They are pretty low-rise so I’d recommend placing them 2.5-3 inches down from the finished waistband. However, since you’ll first need to attach the pockets (we have a great tutorial on inseam pockets by the way) and only then fold and sew the waistband, measure 4.5-5″ down from the top of your fabric. Hope this helps!

      1. Stacy

        Rima, Ahhh, great! Thank you so much for the advice! I have the perfect rust colored linen to use for these pants. I am almost done with the Linen Tshirt pattern that you guys have for us to download, so it will be a perfect match. 🙂 Can’t wait to sew these!

        Regards,
        Stacy


        1. Author
          Rima Khusainova

          Thank you so much for your kind words, Stacy. You’ll love these pants! I made two pairs of these for myself and they are just sooo comfy! Share some pics with us when you’re done, we’d love to see how it turns out in rust (beautiful, I’m sure) 🙂

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