How to Bind a Neckline With a Bias Band Tutorial

How to Bind a Neckline With a Bias Band Tutorial

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There are several ways to finish a neckline: you can either use a bias tape, invisible (or visible) binding or opt for a facing. But we decided to share with you this very simple band binding method which is a great (and quick) alternative to the traditional techniques. It consists in folding a band of fabric cut on bias in half and then stitching it directly into a neckline opening. The seam allowance is then turned to the wrong side and stitched in place enclosing all the raw edges under the seam. With this method you won’t need to make a bias tape if you don’t have a matching one from the shop or to fold your band twice to hide the raw edges.

It’s a great and neat finish that can be used both for necklines and armholes.

Materials & Tools

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Fabric of your choice. We are using our beautiful medium weight linen in IL019 BONE WHITE Softened.

Matching sewing thread (for the purpose of this tutorial we have used a contrasting colour thread), pins, scissors, ruler, fabric pencil/marker, sewing machine

Difficulty

Beginner

Steps

Note: To avoid shrinking and wrinkling, prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, let it dry in room temperature and then iron.

1. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.

2. Let’s start by making our bands of fabric for the binding. Place the fabric flat onto the table and make sure that the selvage line is straight.

3. Draw a diagonal line ( at a 45° angle) across your piece of fabric, from one corner to the opposite corner, using your ruler. Then draw a second parallel line 1,5” apart.

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4. Cut your bias band. Try to make a continuous band a few inches longer than your neck opening.

5. Fold it in two lengthwise (wrong sides together) and press. Be careful not to stretch the fabric too much.

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6. Prepare your garment by pinning and sewing your shoulder seams right sides together. Note that its best to leave the side seams open for now as it will be easier for you to attach the binding when you have an easy access to the neckline area.

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7. Press the seams open and turn your garment right side out.

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8. Take your bias band (folded in half) and pin it to the right side of your neckline starting and ending in the center back and leaving a couple of inches on each side for the overlap. Make sure that the band is evenly distributed (use as many pins as you need), if it’s too long or too short your neckline may not lay flat.

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9. When you reach the center back, unfold and overlap the two ends of the band and pin them right sides together to perfectly fit the opening.

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10. Sew along the pinned spot and press it open.

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11. Fold the band again and pin it to the neckline.

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12. Stitch the band to the neckline at the usual 3/8’’ (1 cm) seam allowance. Start and end at the center back and remember to backstitch. Keep your sewing line parallel to the fold edge (and not to the raw edge).

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13. Make a few notches along the curves. Take your scissors and clip to (but not through) the stitched line.

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14. Press the binding away from the right side.

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15. Turn your garment wrong side out and carefully press and pin the folded binding to the wrong side to create a neat curve. You don’t want your binding to peak out or be visible from the right side.

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16. Stitch around the entire neckline (starting and ending at the center back) right along the fold of your binding. Again, keep your sewing line parallel to the outer folded edge.

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17. Give the neckline a good press and you are all done!

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As you can see, all the raw edges are now enclosed and you have your lovely bound neckline.

You can also use this technique for binding the armholes.

Have a browse through our selection of linen and see if which of our fabrics inspire to use your new skill!

26 comments

  1. Tracey

    Thank you, thank you, thank you! Just finished a beautiful white handkerchief linen summer shirt using this technique. The pattern called for a facing, but the fabric is slightly transparent and this method finished the neckline beautifully.
    Very grateful for your tutorial:)


    1. Author
      Rima Khusainova

      Dear Tracey! I was so happy to read this comment, thank YOU! I’m really glad you found it useful and that you are pleased with your results!


    1. Author
      Rima Khusainova

      Thank you Patty! Since I wanted i wanted my finished binding to be not too wide, I cut a 1.5″ strip of fabric on bias. But you can adjust the width depending on your design. If you want a larger binding, cut a larger strip and vice versa.

  2. Christina

    Very nice tutorial,classic.Can you give suggestions for patterns that are simple clean construction like your demo top? Thank you


    1. Author
      Rima Khusainova

      Dear Christina, I invite you to check our TUTORIALS section where you’ll definitively find some inspiration for using this binding method. I’m currently preparing a tutorial for a ruffle tank top that has exactly the same shape as the demo top and that will be posted shortly.

  3. Veronica

    I learned this process about two years ago and it is now my go-to method. Very easy and results in a neat and fast finish. I also like to stretch the bias tape on some garments to add a little ease if needed. Terrific tutorial!

  4. Helene Chutjian

    Hi, and thanks. I have sewn many necklines over many years using only my ead for directions but you have shown me an easier way. I will use this. Thanks again.

  5. Paulette Hackman

    Will this work on a V neck?. Any tips for the point? I like this type of finish much better than a facing. Thanks
    ,


    1. Author
      Rima Khusainova

      Hi Paulette! It’s possible but you’ll need to do a mitered corner (fold the band to create a V-corner). I think it’s a great suggestion for a separate tutorial 🙂


    1. Author
      Rima Khusainova

      Dear Michele, this must be some technical issue, the photos are there but are probably taking some time to load. Have you tried to use a different browser or relaunch it?


    1. Author
      Rima Khusainova

      Thank you Cynthia! It is the easiest binding method that I know and it always gives a very neat finish.

  6. Willa

    This would also be nice done on the outside of the garment rather than the inside. Also nice either way done in contrast. Linen is so very easy to manipulate for something like this.


    1. Author
      Rima Khusainova

      Dear Willa! Yes, indeed! It would work great if you want to add some contrasting color to the neckline!

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