When it’s summer time, not only short dresses are popular. Nothing says style more, than a classic long linen dress, that is easy to wear, and great for the breezy and warm weather. With such a simple design, you can make a few varying in colours, giving yourself options for daywear and night time wear. Perfect for the beach or equally fabulous to hang out in your garden. We have made this in a lightweight linen, but equally it could be very interesting in a heavier fabric like IL019.
2 1/2 yard of IL022 835 Softened
Matching sewing thread
Pattern paper, Pattern master
Paper and fabric scissors
Erasable fabric marker
Measuring tape, Pin
Bias tape maker
Sewing machine, Iron
Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, let this dry in room temperature.
1. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with
2. The diagram shows the pattern for a size US6-8 (UK10-12). Adjust by adding 3/8 inch (1cm) to each seam for each size up, or take away 3/8 inch (1cm) for each size downwards. So if you are size US10 you will add 0.75 of an inch to all seams shown in diagram (this will include your seam allowance of 3/8 of inch and the sizing up value of 3/8 of an inch for 1 size up) Note: Notching the panels as indicated on the will be useful.
3. Use a serger, or choose your own method to protect the seams from fraying. Make sure the method you choose does not add weight to the fabric.
4. Pin together the front centre panel and the side panels. Stitch along the seam allowance and press open.
5. Pin the top front panel along the top edge of three panels that are sewn together. Stitch and then press.
6. Join the centre seam of the top back panels together. Stitch and press open.
7. Carefully, pin the top seam of the lower back panel to the stitched back panels. Start the stitching 3/8 inch (1cm) away from the edge and finish the stitching in the same manner, this is to ensure you leave for the seam allowance to be sewn for the longer diagonal seams. Press open.
8. Pin together the long side seams of the back panels. Start the stitching where the top seam stitching begins/ends. Press open the seams.
9. Join together the front and back panels’ shoulder seams. Press open.
10. Pin the side seams together, stitch and press open.
11. Following this tutorial, create around 1-2 yards of biased binding tape form remaining material.
12. Pin the tape around the arm holes, leaving around 3 in (7cm) tail of tape at the beginning and end, with a around 3 in (7cm) opening between the first and last pin.
13. Top stitch over the tape and stop as you approach the last pin.
14. Manually join the two ends of tape together, until they meet. Reverse press the tape to make a visible line. Open up the tape and pin across the folded line.
15. Stitch along the folded line, press the seam open and cut away excess tape material.
16. Fold the tape back to its normal form and align it again onto the arm hole seam yet to be covered.
17. Pin it down and top stitch over the tape. Making sure you start and end the stitching matching what was previously sewn to make it as neat as possible.
18. Pin the tape, also around the opening on the back, starting and ending where the neckline is.
19. Top stitch over that.
20. Take the small piece of material for the button loop, fold it in half, press it, then fold the raw edge in towards the folded centre line and give it another press. Top stitch over the opening.
21. Pin together the side seams of the front and back collar panels and stitch them together, give the seams a press.
22. Join the fabric together to double it up. Stitch along the curved seam allowance. Before you press the seam open, create small snippets along the curved edge to allow for movement.
23. Press the 3/8 in (1cm) raw edge of the collar towards its wrong side. Do this on both side of the fabric.
24. Pin this onto the dress collar, making sure the seams for back and front panels match up.
25. Slide the button loop into the left side of the back collar. Pin it down.
26. Top stitch along the end of the collar at the back as well as the curve seam.
27. Following this tutorial, sew a button onto the right side of the neck collar, making sure its placement matches up with the loop sewn on the left hand side.
28. Finally, press the 3/8 in (1cm) seam allowance of the bottom seams of the dress towards its wrong side.
30. Top stitch over the folded seam and give it a press.
What a wonderful and comfortable summer dress to make. Take a look at the plethora of linen we have, may be even try and mix and match some colours together to create that unique dress that is truly yours.