Half Sleeve Linen Dress Tutorial

Half Sleeve Linen Dress Tutorial

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A great dress to wear. Comfortable and loose yet elegant and charming. The measurements of this dress are as follows: Skirt Waist: 38″, bust: 36″, 13.5″ length of sleeve, 13″ from nape of neck to skirt, length of skirt 33.5″

Materials:
3 yards of IL019 Antique White
Thread
Bias tape
A button
Sewing Machine
Pins
Iron
Pattern (CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD)

Start by printing out the pattern (linked above). Cut out all the pieces and tape them together, matching the same letter’ed lines together (for example, match edge A to edge A, edge B to edge B, etc.). The front and back pieces are cut on a fold.

You’ll also need to cut out a large rectangle that is 34″ long x 91″ wide. This is for the skirt.

Once you have your pattern made and the pieces cut out of the fabric, continue onto the sewing steps below.

1. Take your skirt piece and match the two short ends together. Sew using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Iron the seam open.

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2. Fold the bottom edge of the skirt piece towards the wrong side by 1/2″, and iron.

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3. Fold this edge up towards the wrong side again, this time by 2″, and iron.

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4. Pin and sew this in place to create the skirt’s hem. Set this piece aside for now.

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5. Take the front and back pieces, and pin at the shoulders and sides. Sew using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

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6. Iron the seams open that you just sewed.

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7. Clip the edges of the fabric that stick out at the shoulder seams, so the neckline is smooth.

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8. Next, fold approx. 2″ of your bias tape onto itself and sew, so that you create an enclosed tube, hiding the raw edges inside the fabric. This will be the button loop.

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9. Pin the button loop onto one side of the back of the neck, above the keyhole, with the loop facing towards the end of the shoulder. This will be sandwiched between the body of the dress and the bias tape, and will end up folding out to grab the button once everything is in place.

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10. Starting at one of the shoulder seams, pin the bias tape to the neckline, following all around the neckline and keyhole. When you reach the starting end of the bias tape, fold the starting end over by 1/4″, and lay this edge over the folded edge by 1/4″ and trim the rest.

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11. Sew using a 1/4″ seam allowance to secure the bias tape to the neckline.

12. Iron the bias tape outwards.

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13. Fold the bias tape towards the raw edge of the seam, and iron in place, then fold the bias tape in once more, iron and pin.

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14. Sew the bias tape in place, entrapping the raw seam between the bias tape and the body of the dress.

15. Sew a button to the back of the dress opposite the loop.

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16. Pin and sew the sleeve to itself on the short edge, using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Iron the seams open.

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17. Fold the bottom, flat edge of the sleeve up towards the wrong side by 1/2″, iron.

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18. Fold this edge up towards the wrong side again by another 1/2″, iron and pin into place.

19. Sew to create the hem on the sleeve, and repeat with the other sleeve.

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20. Use your favorite gathering method to gather the sleeve between the thin and wide notches on the sides of the sleeve.

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20. Pin the notch at the top of the sleeve to the shoulder seam, and pin the sleeve’s seam to the side seam on the body of the dress. Match up the notches, and pin around the sleeves.

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21. Sew the sleeves to the body of the dress using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

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22. Iron and clip the seam to make it nice and neat. You can use an overstitch/overedge/serger machine on this seam if you’d like, which will encase the seam with thread to help keep it from unraveling. Sew this seam to the body, using a 1/4″ seam allowance, or sewing close to the seam.

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23. Last thing to do is attach the skirt to the body of the dress! Start by marking the halfway point on the waist hem of the skirt piece, then pinning the side seam of the skirt to one side seam of the body, and pinning the halfway point on the skirt to the opposite side seam on the body piece.

24. Use your favorite gathering method to gather the skirt fabric to the waist on the body of the skirt, pin into place and use a 1/2″ seam allowance to secure it.

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25. Iron and clip your seam, then sew to the body of the dress using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Done! A sweet dress that is great for nearly any season!

 

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Don’t forget to show us your dress in the comments below! Also, you can get this fabric from Fabrics-store.com by clicking here. Don’t like the Antique White color? Not a problem! The IL019 comes in all sorts of amazing colors (especially for a nice linen like this). Click here to check out the full selection of colors in this weight.

Enjoy!

56 comments

  1. Tamar Rein

    I’m confused about the specified 33.5 inch length of the skirt. If the rectangle for the skirt is cut 34 inches deep, and you hem up first 1/2 inch and then fold that over another 2 inches, you now have a skirt length of 31 1/2, and that’s not including the seam allowance where you join the skirt at the bodice. Seems like length would be much closer to 31 inches?

  2. Lisa

    Hi!

    I must be missing something in this tutorial! I cut all of my pieces out as directed on the pattern but when I read your intructions here on the tutorial something is off on tne skirt instructions. The pattern piece is a large rectangle that says cut on fold 2 times! This means that you end up with 2 pieces for the skirt but when you look at # 1 of the instructions it says One piece! I can work with this as is but it doesn’t make sense to me in the instructions. There seems to be a disconnect between the pattern pieces and the instructions! Please let me know!

  3. Naty

    Hi, I’m Natalie.

    I making this dress.but I don’t understand skirt’s size.
    so, I want just know skirt’s size, only that size. What is width? What is length?

  4. Morgan

    While I appreciate the free pattern, these instructions need a lot of work to be useful.

    1. The materials list just says “bias tape”. What width? How much? This is important!
    2. The pattern includes optional bust darts but there is no mention of them in this tutorial.
    3. We need much better instructions and photos for the button loop. First of all, that is NOT 2in of bias tape in the picture – it’s more. Do you sew & pin it to the right side or wrong side of the fabric? HOW ABOUT A PICTURE?
    4. You need to include better instructions for getting the bias tape around the keyhole. In the image, it looks like the bias tape goes continuously around the neckline and keyhole, but how?
    5. Overall, you need to specify whether you’re working on the right side or wrong side of the fabric.

    This was a hugely frustrating project due to the lack of good instructions. I’m at the bias tape stage now and I can’t move forward. I’m setting this aside until I get answers to my questions above.

  5. Laura

    I’m feeling really dense, so please forgive this stupid question. I downloaded the pattern template for the bodice (it looks like it’s just one size?), but can’t find the pattern for the skirt anywhere. What am I missing? Thanks.

      1. Laura

        That’s what I got last time: a two-page file with a link to sewing instructions. Nothing to cut out for the skirt, no idea where to get it. Nothing about sizes for the top. You might double check what you’re sending out. 🙁

    1. Jean

      They don’t provide a pattern piece for the skirt. From the instructions: “You’ll also need to cut out a large rectangle that is 34″ long x 91″ wide. This is for the skirt.”

  6. Mariette van Huyssteen

    I have difficulty downloading the patterns. Dropbox just stops responding. Can anyone shed some light please?

    1. Mary Jacobsen

      I had the same problem…. I am not using drop box, but I can not get a down load to run either, I just get the cover page with no further links or download “button”.

    2. Tyia

      I had no problems downloading this pattern. I used Adobe Reader. There are 3 parts, 2 of which are attachments (Parts1 & 2). Each attachment needs to be opened/downloaded and under the layers section you need to deselect/un-mark the sizes that you do NOT want saved or printed, so only the size you want is marked. Then make sure to save them. The first part is only two pages, Pg 1 is a photo of the dress, Pg 2 contains the pattern details, download instructions, tips, sizing & yardage,and the link to this Website (currently commenting on) with Step-by-step sewing instructions and photos for this pattern. Also Make sure to read and follow the instructions on the 1st page of each attachment prior to printing. There’s very important details on how to check the scale before printing all the pages of the pattern.

  7. SCLady

    Talk about looking a gift horse in the mouth !

    All of you complaining about “if you’re going to post, you could at least give the size”. When you are offered something free, if you can’t use it, just don’t accept the freebie, and certainly don’t complain.

  8. Cris

    Super cute! I think I’ll make one adjustment. I’ll make the skirt in two pieces, front and back, so I can add pockets at the side seams. I love pockets.

  9. Sophie MacKenzie

    I’m trying to make this dress for an event in two days and just noticed the skirt is supposed to be 91 cm, thats 7 feet! Is this correct? Thanks for the beautiful pattern, I can’t wait to make it.

      1. Jean

        It says 91″ at the top of the instructions. That equals 2.5 YARDS which is closer to 7 feet, a full gathered skirt.

  10. Marsha

    I think what people are asking for is the measurement of the model so they can tell how to alter the pattern to fit themselves. The measurements you keep putting on the replies is the same measurements as in the description – the measurement of the pattern pieces. One cannot know how much ease to allow between one’s own measurements and the size of the pattern if one does not know the measurements of the model. She’s obviously teeny, so shouldn’t mind, and we don’t know who she is, anyway.

    Thank you.

  11. Eliza

    Hi, thanks for uploading such a fabulous dress tutorial! Apologies if this question has previously been asked, but I’m wondering whether a seam allowance has already been included in this pattern, or whether it need to be added? Thanks so much!

  12. Courtney

    I love the fit of the dress on the model. Can you tell me how much ease the garment has, or the difference between the model’s measurements and the final bust and waist measurements? Is it somewhere around 4-6″? I’ll be grading this pattern up and wold like to try to replicate the fit. Thanks!

  13. Daphne

    I love, love, linen. I love the feel. I love the look. I love to sew on it. I am however firmly in the plus sized category and none of your patterns seem to be in those sizes. Have you considered sizing some in larger sizes for those of us who are not a size 4? I would love it if you could.

  14. Susana

    Steps 24 and 25 seem to contradict. Step 24 says to gather using your favorite method (and the photo shows two lines of gathering stitches, as I just recommended on another tutorial) and to sew with 1/2″ seam allowance. Then Step 25 says use 1/4″ seam allowance.

    I would never use a seam as small at 1/4″ for a waistline. Step 25 should probably just be ignored.

    1. Martha

      Susana, Step 25 is done after you’ve completed Step 24 and attached the skirt to the bodice. It catches the seam allowance of the seam from that joining, pressed towards the bodice and attaches it to the bodice with a 1/4″ seam. It ends up looking like a top-stitching. It’s the same as what happened with the sleeve after it was attached to the bodice in Step 22 and you can see the result in the photo below that step. It adds a nice finished detail to the dress while helping to reinforce and finish the seam allowances.

  15. Peggy

    You should be able to work this pattern, no matter what your size fro a bodice made with your measurements! Thank you, I love this dress, I think I might even color block the top white, bottom, kachi, I can’t wait to make it! I hope I can figure out how to post!

  16. FLWendy

    Beautiful dress with a free pattern!? Thank you!!! I will be downloading and making a dress for my daughter ASAP! Thank you!

  17. R

    Ladies there are several tutorials available on line for adjusting sizes on a pattern, or if you really like the style and don’t have the time or want to put in the effort to making adjustments simply print out the picture, take it to a store where you purchase patterns and buy one similar in your size. Masha has repeatedly given the measurements here.

    1. Masha Karpushina

      Hey Sherrir, sorry for delayed reply, our seamstress no longer works for us. Here are the measurements of the dress as shown in the photo. It is not meant to be a fitted dress: Skirt Waist: 38″, bust: 36″, 13.5″ length of sleeve, 13″ from nape of neck to skirt, length of skirt 33.5″. Hope this helps. Thank you.

  18. Lynn

    I also am frustrated when the patterns don’t show sizes. However, it seems that no matter whether I use Explorer, Chrome or Firefox, the free patterns aren’t reachable. The links to patterns I can purchase are ALWAYS available. It’s even more frustrating than a non-sized pattern.

    1. Masha Karpushina

      Hi Denise, sorry for delayed answer, here are the measurements of this dress. It is not supposed to be fitted as you can see in the photo: Skirt Waist: 38″, bust: 36″, 13.5″ length of sleeve, 13″ from nape of neck to skirt, length of skirt 33.5″. Hope this helps. Thank you.

  19. Livilla

    I love this dress but I printed out the pattern and it looks as though it is sized for a large doll or something. Without sizing, it is extremely difficult to determine what goes where and how. I know for a fact that the first piece is not meant for any adult at all. I can resize it myself without too much difficulty, but it would be much easier to use these patterns if there were some directions as to printing (resize 200%? 300%?) and pattern sizing itself.

    1. Masha Karpushina

      Hi Livilla, this dress is really not supposed to be fitted. You can see in the photo (that’s me), I am actually a size 4, and the dress is super loose on me, but its lovely this way. Our seamstress no longer works for us, so unfortunately can’t answer about the print out question: Skirt Waist: 38″, bust: 36″, 13.5″ length of sleeve, 13″ from nape of neck to skirt, length of skirt 33.5″. Hope this helps. Thank you.

    2. Ginny Lewis

      Sizing is not the problem; we just need instructions as to how to print the pattern! It must be resized on the computer; but what proportion ??? as stated previously, 200%, etc. Please help. This is a darling pattern and I have not been able to find anything similar commercially. Thanks.

      1. Ginny Lewis

        Hi! Me again…..I printed out the entire 10 pages and it now fits together and makes perfect sense! Sorry for the confusion; I was printing out only one piece and it appeared to be way undersized but when you print the entire pattern, it works! I do plan to make a few adjustments; add pockets, raise the waist and lengthen the skirt a bit but I think it has potential and I thank you!

    3. Allan Wafkowski

      I believe you printed but did not cut out the pattern. It is most certainly is the size stated.

  20. AmyCat =^.^=

    I agree with Phyllis. WE ARE NOT ALL PERFECT MODEL-SIZE LADIES! A pattern with no sizes is useless. If you’re going to PUBLISH it, you should at LEAST tell us the size of the model for whom you made this (the pretty lady in the photos). MINIMUM information we’d need: Waist measurement and bust measurement. Also useful: circumference of upper arms at widest point, length of sleeve ((from point of shoulder to elbow), length from nape of neck to waist, length from waist to hemline.

    1. Masha Karpushina

      Hi Amy, here are the measurements, our seamstress no longer works for us, so sorry for the delay in answers: Skirt Waist: 38″, bust: 36″, 13.5″ length of sleeve, 13″ from nape of neck to skirt, length of skirt 33.5″

  21. Phyllis

    Again we have a pattern with no indication of measurements. Is the dress sized for a size 4, size 10, or a size 16? How difficult would it be to give some indication of the size? I know I could print out all 10 pages, tape them together and then measure. However it would be so much easier if you would just tell us. I have made this request before and I know I’m not the only one who finds this inconvenient since I’ve seen many similar comments. While we appreciate the fact that you share these with us, this is a small and easily accommodated request. Thank you.

    1. Masha Karpushina

      Here are the measurements, our seamstress no longer works for us, so sorry for the delay in answers: Skirt Waist: 38″, bust: 36″, 13.5″ length of sleeve, 13″ from nape of neck to skirt, length of skirt 33.5″

    2. Shirley White

      I can’t understand what you mean, because when I open the PDF document, there are layers which show the different sizes.
      You just have to click on the ones you don’t want to see and leave the size you want.
      I don’t see the problem?

  22. sarah scott

    I like this dress. What about the sizing…is it one-size-fits-all? I looked at the download and there is no gradations. Did I miss something?

    1. Masha Karpushina

      Here are the measurements, our seamstress no longer works for us, so sorry for the delay in answers: Skirt Waist: 38″, bust: 36″, 13.5″ length of sleeve, 13″ from nape of neck to skirt, length of skirt 33.5″

    2. Shirley White

      Yes, the it is a layered PDF with each layer for the different sizes. You don’t have to grade the sizes yourself, it is all there.
      Maybe your version of Acrobat is not the latest or something.

  23. TerriSue

    I really like this dress. It would help if you would have put the measurements of the completed piece. Even some indication of what sizes it would fit. Anything!

    1. Masha Karpushina

      Here are the measurements, our seamstress no longer works for us, so sorry for the delay in answers: Skirt Waist: 38″, bust: 36″, 13.5″ length of sleeve, 13″ from nape of neck to skirt, length of skirt 33.5″

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