The “pattern” included here is a guideline for how to make your own jacket. You may have to tweak the pattern a bit in order to make it fit your shape, and you can add your own unique styling to it as you go. The pattern includes approximate measurements for someone who is around a US size Medium.
4 to 5 yards of 4C22 Ginger
Start by cutting out all your pieces. First, let’s focus on the pockets, starting with the two inside pieces. Join them together along the edge that faces the front and the bottom. It’s a great idea to use an overlock stitch.
Take the bottom-front coat portion and the front coat portion, and seam them together from the very front to where the pocket will begin. Match the top open seam up with the top of your bottom-front coat portion, matching the seam of the pocket up with the mark where your pocket starts. This part gets a little tricky.
First you’ll want to seam from where the pocket will start to where the pocket will end on the side of the coat, matching first the bottom-front coat with the pocket, with the pocket turned inside out. Repeat with the other side, matching the pocket with the top-front portion of the coat.
You don’t want to do the pocket seam all in one run, because your seam where the two front-coat pieces meet will end up bunched on the inside. Now turn the pocket right-side out (so that the seam is on the inside of the coat, and the inside of the pocket – where your hand goes – has no selvage edge).
Iron all the edges flat, and do a double stitch across where the two front-coat pieces meet, stopping where the pocket starts.
Now sew a double stitch across the front, outside of the pocket, stopping just before where the previous double stitches are. This is optional: if you want to make sure everything lays nice and neat, you can sew a stitch across the inside seam of the pocket, where it meets the top-coat portion.
Now you can hand stitch or use your machine to meet the two double stitches in the front, and tack the pocket closed. Line up the pocket with the outside edge of the coat, and do a baste stitch along the outer edge – just to keep everything nice and neat.
Moving on to the sleeves, we’re going to add a nice sleeve edge decoration. This is strictly optional, but gives it that denim look without having to make a whole cuff. There is a more advanced way to do this, but this looks nearly as nice and takes a quarter of the time.
Sew the bottom of the sleeve to the bottom of the sleeve cuff, with wrong side matching the right side. Iron the upper edge of the cuff over by ¼”, fold the cuff over so it hides the selvage edge and iron the bottom down so it lays flat on the sleeve. Sew a double stitch across the top edge of the cuff, securing it to the sleeve. You can also sew a stitch along the bottom of the cuff, or a double stitch, or whatever you prefer! (Decorative stitches, anyone?) When you’re done with the sleeve cuffs, sew the selvage edges of the sleeves together to make two sleeves and set them aside.
Now we’re going to finish up the body of the jacket. Sew in the darts on the two front pieces. Sew the shoulders together and iron the seam towards the back. Use a double stitch to secure the seam and for decoration. Sew the sides together, and set aside for now. Moving on to the neck and front decoration. Cut them out, seam the top front and back neck portion together at the shoulders, and iron the outer edge over by ¼”. Also iron the front decoration portion over by ¼” (this is where the buttons will go!). This next part is tricky! First, pin the front decoration onto the back of the front jacket piece, with the folded-over side (the wrong side) facing outward, or towards the inside of the jacket. Only pin it at the top!
Now you’ll line up and pin the neck/shoulder decoration, putting it on the inside of the jacket and covering the front/button piece that you pinned down. Sew along the inside of the neck and remove the pins. Fold the neck part down, iron and pin it into place. DO NOT PIN THE FRONT BUTTON AREA DOWN. This is very important! You want that button piece flying in the breeze, only sewn at the top. Now do a double stitch around the neck decoration.
Now you’ll pin down the front button piece, with it lined up along the inside of the jacket. Stitch across the front and clip the top corner. Fold out the front decoration piece, push out the corner, and iron. Take the bottom-front decoration pieces and fold the top down by ¼”. Pin it onto the back of the front pieces of the jacket at the bottom, with the right side of the decoration piece against the wrong side of the jacket. Sew, fold over and iron into place. (Do the same with the bottom-back decoration piece as well!) Pin, and sew a seam 1/8” along the folded edge, leaving the front decoration piece open and unsewn.
Now fold the bottom part of the front decoration under itself and line the bottom up over the bottom decoration. You’re creating a small area that will hide all of the raw edges. Now iron and pin the front decoration piece along the body and sew a stitch 1/8” from the folded side, securing it in place. If you’d like, you can now sew a stitch all the way around the outside of the front of the jacket, helping to hold the decoration pieces together and giving it a uniform appearance. Take the front body of the jacket and line up the side seam with the back of the jacket, and sew. Your jacket is nearly done! Just a few more steps! Sew a long baste stitch along the top curve of the sleeve. This will be for gathering. Line up the top of the sleeve with the top shoulder of your jacket, and the bottom seam with the side seam of your jacket. Pin all the way around, gathering near the top.
Sew in the jacket’s sleeve with a ½” seam allowance. The final step is the buttons! Thankfully, there are only three for this design, however you can certainly add as many as you’d like.
If you have a sewing machine that has a button foot, you can have your machine do all the hard work for you. If you don’t, then you’ll likely end up doing it by hand. Use your favorite method to create the buttonhole, and match it on the other side with a button. Some newer machines can even sew the button itself on for you. Once you have the buttons done, your jacket is complete. Pat yourself on the back and show off your hard work!
Darts on the back