The 1st place winner is Lynne with 924 votes!
"Heraldry's modern equivalent is the college sweatshirt meeting the business card–something unique to you so you can be identified from a distance! This cotehardie is of the IL019 linen with appliquéd fleur-de-lis and hare. On the OTHER side of this dress is another whole pattern with greyhounds. His garment is a surcote, worn over armor for medieval martial arts combat. So fun to make, but even more fabulous to wear! I get to teach many people about my sewing when they ask about the clothing."
Congratulations Lynne, your works really show off your unique creativity and talent! You’ll be able to sew plenty more inspirational linen designs with your $250 prize to spend at Fabrics-Store.com!
Shop for medium weight 100% linen IL019 here>>>
2nd Place Winners:
Molly with 725 votes:"The hustle My Bustle skirt, drawstring waist in the back, linen a-line maxi with pink and white coordinating ruffled fabric."
Shop for medium weight 100% linen IL019 here>>>
Rachelle with 553 votes""This early period Norse ensemble is made from medium weight linen. The dress is Krista Natural, and the hangarok(apron) is Crimson. Both garments are hand finished/embroidered with silk floss."
Shop for medium weight 100% linen IL019 here>>>
3rd Place Winners:
Deanna with 338 votes.
"Linen Regency Dress"
Wendy with 315 votes"Spring is the start of fighting season. Rapier fighters slough off the winter by getting outside for duels and small unit combat. This is a heraldic cote made from several layers of medium weight linen, in black, potting soil, taxicab, white, crimson, natural and orange."
Shop for medium weight 100% linen IL019 here>>>
April with 279 votes"I wanted something different to wear to Ren Faires and SCA events (I'm a musician in a band, the Tulstin Troubadours), so I chose 15th century Flemish for its unique look and comfort. This outfit is very versatile! If it's hot, I can wear just the smock and the blue kirtle, and if it's cold, I can add the two layer overdress and tie-on sleeves. The entire overdress is lined, so I can tuck up the skirt to show off the yellow. My band's colors are green, blue, and gold, so I used IL020 Bleached for the smock and the partlet, IL019 Cobalt for the kirtle, and 4C22 in Emerald and Autumn Gold for the overdress. The tie-on sleeves are reversible IL019 Cobalt and 4C22 Emerald, which makes for nice contrasting cuffs when I roll them up. The partlet was made completely by hand, and the back of both the kirtle and overdress were pleated using double box pleats to provide extra poof without using a bumroll."
Shop for medium weight 100% linen IL019 here>>>
Thank you to everyone who participated! We were overjoyed with the amount of designs that were eagerly submitted.
Everyone really proved that when it comes to linen, you can design some amazing Spring Crafts.The variety of projects was absolutely amazing! Keep on designing and showing off your incredibly talent!
Ribbon meets linen in today's post that shows you a clever way to add a beautiful detail to your bedding. I already showed you how easy making a linen duvet cover is, and now you can make that bedding even more special. Grab some ribbon and get crafty!
Whether you feel like adding one or two rows of ribbon along the edge of your duvet cover and pillows, this border will boost your bedding to another level!
Before we begin, I should mention again why linen makes an excellent choice for your bedding. You know by now that linen is actually soft against the skin (forget all those burlap bag comparisons!) and that it just gets more luxuriously soft with each wash. Linen is the best thing to wrap around you while you sleep! Need more reasons? I've got you covered!
Here is just a few more reasons I choose linen for my bed:
- Linen suppresses live pathogenic bacteria, micro flora, and fungi and is allergy free.
- Stimulates blood flow and promotes relaxation.
- It is a breathable fabric that keeps you warm in the winter and cool in the summer. No more waking up in sweaty damp polyester/cotton sheets.
- Has an excellent ability to absorb superfluous moisture.
- Stronger than cotton.
- Long lasting and grows more comfortable with every use.
- Linen is environmentally friendly. It is a renewable resource and biodegradable.
The white linen with a border of black grosgrain ribbon looks beautiful, but there are so many colors to choose from!
Get creative and mix up colors.
View all colors here>>
Grosgrain ribbon can be found just about anywhere. Your local fabric store is a great place to look.
The clean border is a classic touch and makes your bed linen look so beautiful! The grosgrain ribbon trails along the length of both sides of the duvet. Why not make something gorgeous and handsewn to show the care you give your bed linen? This delicate feature adds elegance to decadently soft linen and will transform your ordinary bedding.
To show you just how easy it is, I decided to do a single ribbon border along the edge of a small pillowcase.
All you need is some linen and ribbon to get started. I chose to demonstrate this technique with IL020 linen in Cerulean.
You can find Cerulean here>>
IL020 is a lightweight linen is good for decorative pillows like this, but I would stick with IL019 for bedding. IL019 is a medium weight linen that is ideal for bedding. If you want to use IL020 for bedding, that is fine, but just keep in mind that it is a little more delicate (think handkerchiefs).I naturally chose a white ribbon to go with this blue shade of linen!
I measured my linen to extend over my pillow 3 inches; this allows extra material to create a border with. I cut two identical pieces like this.
I sewed the outermost edges first and then made a seam with the edge of my pillow will meet. Remember to leave a small opening for both seams to insert your pillow through later.
Sew the ribbon onto the inner stitch by making two seams along the edges of the ribbon. If you like, you can make a border with two rows of linen (like the the black and white bedding). Fold the ribbon at each corner so you can continue sewing.
Sew the ribbon all the way around, but stop at the opening you left for the pillow. The image above shows you how the right side of the case is still unfinished.
Once you place the pillow inside, you can finish all the seams by hand.
I love how the ribbon adds a classic border that is super easy to do. This is so simple to add to a duvet cover! All you need is some ribbon and you can make a straight stitch to keep it in place. It is just the thing to add something extra to your linen bedding.
Here's another idea….why not add some lace? This same technique for adding a ribbon border to linen bedding, can be applied with lace. Lace trim is a beautiful touch that looks like it took forever to do, but in reality takes just a few minutes to add!
I hope you all found these tips to be useful. Linen is a great canvas for creative ideas. Even the addition of ribbon can make your bedding look like it belongs in a home decor magazine!
All the linen you need for your sewing projects is available here>>
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Does your chair need a cushion to make it more comfy? An easy-to-sew seat cushion is just the answer!
I made my seat cushion with natural linen so it will match any chair. I plan on making a set for all the chairs at my table. I love how the natural linen will go great with vintage wrought-iron chairs and wood chairs.
The sturdy weave of the linen helps these seat cushions withstand the test of time. You won't need to replace these after a year! They will last you for years and years to come. The ties help keep these cushions in place and the bows add a lovely detail!
I went with natural linen, but you can select the color you like. I suggest using a 5.3 ounce per square yard linen or heavier for this project!
Check out all the colors for your cushion here>>>
|Materials:
- 1/2 yard of linen (prewashed)
- craft paper
- 20" sqaure piece of 1/2" thick foam padding
- pencil
- scissors
- measuring tape
- pins
- sewing machine
- cotton cord
I chose to make my seat cushion with
4C22 Natural softened linen. Middle-weight
IL019 and heavy-weight
4C22 are the best linens to select for this project. You can make your seat cushion in any color you like!
You can find foam padding at a craft or sewing store. Try to find some that is 1/2 inch thick so your cushion will be comfy.
I took a photo of the finished seat cushion to give you an idea of the shape you should trace for the pattern.
On the craft paper, trace the shape of the chair's seat. march on your paper where the back of the chair attaches to the seat. Then, cut out the paper shape.
Trace the shape onto another piece of paper. The first paper pattern will be your foam shape. The second paper pattern will be your cover shape.
Using a measuring tape or ruler, mark 1/2" all the way around the outside of your cover shape. Cut out the paper on this line. Cut two of these cover pieces out of the linen fabric. Transfer the marks where the back attaches to the seat onto the "wrong" side of the fabric.
This is the cotton cord that will be inserting into the seam that goes around the edge of the seat cushion. This is just for a nice detail and is completely optional. If you prefer, you can seam the top and bottom pieces of linen together with a simple straight stitch.
The seam along the top shows your where I placed the cord and then sewed it into place. Just do this to the bottom piece of the linen for the cushion. The other piece of linen will soon be attached to the bottom by making a stitch over the one we just made. Not just yet though….first we need to make the ties.
I'm sure if you've been following our blog, you are pro at making straps with linen. If you need a refresher, don't worry! Just cut four piece of linen 2 inches wide and 12" long. Fold your linen strip down halfway down along the center and the fold the edges in to meet the centerfold. Then just make a seam along the edge to complete your strap.
I like to knot the ends of the ties to keep them from fraying. Pin the ribbons to the location where you will seam them into place when you sewing the two pieces of linen together. There is a image of what this looks like once complete if you scroll down the page a bit.
With the "right" sides facing each other, sew the cover pieces together, with the exception of an 8" opening to insert the padding into. Make sure to keep the ties in place, so they a included in the seam at their marked spots.
Now that the edges are sewn, it is time to place the foam padding inside the linen cover.
Fold or roll up the padding so that it fits through the opening.
When it is all inside, straighten it out so all the edges line up.
You just need to grab a sewing needle and thread to stitch up this opening once the padding is inside.
Make the stitch as neat as you can so it blends in with the rest of the seam.
This is how the ties should be attached to the seat cushion so you get a better idea. Just simply include them in the seam as you sew, so that the raw edge is concealed.
Tie your seat cushion to your chair and see how comfy it is! Get started on more cushions and have a complete set that is ready for any table. This is a great idea for patio chairs too!
A linen wash mitt is a great idea if you are looking for a simple way to add a thoughtful addition to your bath.
Linen was one of the primiary household textiles used in 18th-century France. This tradition carries on today in the various home items still made with linen.
The bath mitt is made with linen for its absorbent quality and its ability to dry quickly. You can store your bar of soap inside or wear it on your hand as you wash. These are perfect for children to use in the bathtub because they are fun to use in a soapy bath.
These classic mitts are stilled featured in many Europeans bathtubs are a beautiful way to decorate your bath with a useful item. View the easy steps and get started on your bath mitt today.
Materials:
- Two different shades of linen
- Twill tape or just extra linen
- Sewing machine
- Measuring tape
- Scissors
Remember, you should always preshrink your link by wasking, drying, and ironing it before starting any project.
I used IL019 and 4C22 linen for my wash mitt because they are both thick and durable. They are the perfect weight for a wash mitt. I still double-layered them when sewing to make it even thicker.I select IL019 in Mixed Natural and 4C22 in Emerald.
These are the colors I chose, but you should have fun choosing whatever shades of linen you like! I would explore the color options available for heavy-weight 4C22 first.
Here is an even better reason to stock up on more shades of 4C22- right now, until Sunday, March 25th, 4C22 Linen is ON SALE!
View 4C22 colors here>>
Cut a rectangle 10" wide by 26" long out of the Mixed Natural linen.
I wanted my linen mitt to be thicker and more durable, so I double-layered mine by folding it in half. This gave me a rectangle measuring 10" wide by 13" long.
Cut another rectangle 3 1/2 wide by 26 inches long, out of the green linen.
I double-layered this as well, giving me a striped measuring 3 1/2" by 13"
With the "wrong" side facing up (this isn't a concern unless you are using a linen with a pattern), fold both short ends of the green linen in by 1/2"
Press these folds down with a hot iron and center the strip on the Mixed Natural linen's edge.
Sew over the folded edges and down the long edge.
Flip the undyed strip to the "right" side of the Mixed Natural linen. Fold the edges in of the green linen to prepare for a topstitch.
Topstitch all the way around the green linen, close to the edges.
Maybe sew the line a little straighter than me…haha. It's okay though. I always consider mistakes as "rustic" details. It works!
I can't even tell it's not straight from far away! Anyways, I like to iron my linen between steps to make the edges cleaner. Sewing straight lines is usually easier that way too.
Fold the mitt in half with the right side facing up, making a 9 1/2" x 6 1/2" rectangle. Sew the raw edges with a 1/2" seam.
Once the raw edges are sewn, trim the corners and trim the seam allowance down to a 1/4"
If you have bias tape or twill tape, use it for this next step. If not, then cut a strip of fabric, like I did, about 1 1/2 inches wide and long enough to fit around the side of the mitt, plus a few extra inches for the handle.
I folded in the edges of the strip to make a clean border around the raw and then sewed it down.
It's really easy to do and makes a nice border around two edges.
I just kept sewing the strip along the border so there was some extra fabric for a loop handle. This makes it possible to hang your wash mitt in the shower. Just make a loop and stitch the end to the base to create your handle. Now you can use a linen bath mitt the next time you relax in the tub or take a hot shower!
Don't forget the SALE on all shades of 4C22 Linen!
Get all the linen you need to make a wash mitt here!>>
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The fringed border on these placemats give them a unique touch! You no longer have to reserve you placemats for only special occasions. These a great to use everyday because of the casual striped pattern that give your table an easy-going charm.
I made mine with a striped pattern for the front and another shade for the back so they can be flipped over depending on the table setting. The fringed edge on these placemats add a rustic elegance to your table.
The striped linen I used can be found here >>>
I chose Cerulean for the other side of my placemat because I thought it went well with the striped pattern. I really think any of our linen weights will work great for this project. Check out IL020, IL019, and 4C22 for different color options!
The yarn dye linens are where you'll find more patterns for the patterned side of your placemat.
The reversible placemat is a great idea! I like to keep one side simple with a solid color that coordinates with my everyday tablecloth. The striped pattern is when I feel like adding a little more character to my table!
Materials:
- 1 yard of striped linen
- 1 yard of solid color linen
- coordinating thread
- measuring tape
- scissors
- pins
- iron
- sewing machine
I used a striped linen for my placemats. Find the one I used here>> Striped Linen. It is a fairly lightweight linen and works great for this project.
I chose a solid color for the other side of my placemat. Feel free to have fun picking out different patterns and colors! You can use these same steps to create a variety of placemat looks!
I used Cerulean in IL020 linen for mine because I liked the way the blue matched the striped pattern.
Remember to preshrink your fabric by, washing, drying, and pressing it before started this project. This amount of linen will give you four complete placemats.
Cut 1 rectangle, 14" by 20", out of the striped linen. Do the same for the solid color linen.
For the nicest fringe, cutting must be done exactly on the straight grain of the fabric. The grains are really easy to see on the linen fabric.You should end up with one 14" by 20" striped rectangle and one 14" by 20" solid rectangle.
Now stack the two pieces of linen so that all the edges are evenly aligned. I like to use pins along the sides to keep everything in place.
Topstitch around the placement, 5/8" from the raw edge. I used a tight zig-zag stitch for mine so the fringing doesn't mess up the edges in the future.
When you have stitched all the sides, you can begin pulling the fibers away to achieve the frayed effect.
For the nicest fringe, cutting must be done exactly on the straight grain of the fabric. The grains are really easy to see on the linen fabric. I love how the fringed strands reveal a bolder color. It makes the edge look even better!
I really like how this is reversible. The blue shade will look great against white dining ware. I am taking these to outside to the patio to complete the perfect sunny day meal!
Now I have a great reason to slow down and enjoy my breakfast. Even if it's breakfast for just one, I love doing things like this for myself!
There are plenty of different pattern options for your placemats. Pick out your favorite and get started! Find all the YARN DYE linens here>>
I think any type of linen will work for this project! Lightweight, middleweight, heavyweight- the all work! Take a look at the entire linen selection here>>
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Using remnants from previous projects, I cut out circles from checkered and natural linen. Then I stitched both fabrics together using a machine stitch.
The heavier linen weights, such as 4C22 or anything above 7.1 ounces per square yard, works well for these coasters.
Linen is a great fabric to use for coasters because it absorbs liquid and dries quickly!
Materials:
- two different prints or shades of linen measuring 1/4 yard each.
- 1/4 yard of fusible webbing or linen
- coordinating thread
- scissors
- sewing machine
Fusible webbing is the iron on insulating material that you can use in between the two pieces of linen. Insul-bright can be found at any craft or sewing store. I just ran out of this material, so I used another piece of linen to use for insulation. The extra linen will work just fine in this case in protecting your table and soaking up any liquid. It is a fairly thin coaster either way but it does the job and looks great. You'll have something functional and beautiful!
Start by cutting the topside of your coaster. I chose a red checkered print linen I found in our Doggie Bag section a while back. This is why it is always good to check what we have in this section! The Doggie Bag fabrics are the remaining end pieces from our bolts that are offered at a discounted price. They come pre-cut at different lengths and are a great deal. Although this color isn't available at the moment, there are many Yarn Dye linens that are perfect for this coaster. I would check those out too!
You can even choose a solid color for your coaster and add some nice embroidery! I recommend picking the heavier weight 4C22 linenfor this project.
Back to the cutting! Just cut one 5 inch square from your linen for the top, one for the back, and one out of the fusible webbing. I picked out 4C22 linen in Natural for my coaster because of its heavier weight. If you are making your coaster without fusible webbing, like me, follow this same step.
Using a circular object, such as the bottom of a jar, trace the round coaster shape onto the Tight side of your top fabric with a light pencil or fabric chalk.
Sandwich the fusible webbing (or linen) between the fabric squares, wrong sides of the fabrics together. If you are using the fusible webbing, fuse the fabrics together by following the manufacturer's instructions. Usually you just iron it and wait for it to cool. If you are using linen between the two fabrics, still iron everything to make sure you get all the wrinkles out and everything is flat.
Set your sewing machine to a zigzag stitch with very tight tension. All modern sewing machines have a zigzag setting with adjustable widths and styles. Zigzag stitching is perfect for sewing stretchy fabrics when your seams need to have some give to them, and zigzagging is often used to finish the raw edges of a project in place of pinking or overcasting.
Test the zigzag on a scrap of fabric and adjust the machine's settings until you achieve a zigzag that is about 1/4 inch wide and produces a very tight, satin stitch effect.Zigzag around the coaster shape on the pencil line. Go slowly, making sure to maintain an even satin stitch. If your coaster ripples around the edges, press the entire coaster again before trimming.
Here is the stitch from the top.
and from the bottom…
Now it is time to trim off all the fabric on the outside of the circle.
Trim the fabric away and try to get as close as possible to the stitching as possible.
Your coaster is made!
I love how the bottom of the coaster is done is a natural shade!
There you have it! An adorable coaster is now ready to use with your next cup of tea, or perhaps some lemonade!
Check out the Doggie Bags for new specials that come up every two weeks. This is a great way to get linen at a really low price. I'd take a look at some of the floral and striped prints we offer!
The Yarn Dye and 4C22 linens are just the thing for this craft. Check them out and pick out coaster colors to match your style!
If you have ideas for linen crafts and sewing projects, let me know! Leave a comment here or on our Facebook page. You can always just say "Hello!" too. Thanks, everyone! Have a fun sewing day!
Storing bread in linen is the best method to prevent it from going stale. Better than plastic bags or tupperware, linen maintains the softness of bread, while preserving its crisp exterior. So enjoy your bread another day or two without having to hurt your teeth on tough crust and tasteless bread!
I really enjoy baking and so when I'm giving away some baked treats, I like to wrap them in one of these linen bags. It is always nice to add a nice homemade touch to something. Plus, it looks so much more thoughtful and beautiful than plastic wrap. Giving away freshly baked goodies in a linen bag you sewed yourself is a really sweet gesture. It doesn't take very long to do, but sometimes the smallest touch like this can make a difference.
I just sew these up in my spare time with any scraps of linen I have from other projects. The size of these bags can vary, depending on your preference. Also, feel free to get creative with your linen colors! I think some embroidery is the perfect thing for this bag. If you know how to embroider, then this is a great craft to add some embellishments to.
Materials:
- Pre-laundered linen (about a 1/4 yard)
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Sewing machine
- 1 yard of 4C22
I choose to make my bag with heavy weight 4C22 linen. This linen is 7.1 ounces per square yard and works well for this particular project.
I've made this bag before in Natural linen, but today I am making it in a softened White linen. The softened linen goes through a different process when it is manufactured. There are no added chemicals or anything like that. The only difference between the softened and unsoftened linen options are the texture. I like both types, but just chose to go with the softened version today.
Cut your linen into a rectangular shape. You don't have to follow my measurements precisely. I just measured out what I thought would be larger enough to hold different sizes of bread best.
I measured a piece of linen 16×11 inches, with a fold on one side. Your linen should be doubled because of this fold. In the image above, you can see the fold is one the righthand side. That will form the bottom of the bag.
The horizontal edges along the top and bottom are what will be sewing up in the next step. I placed some sewing pins along the top to make sure everything says aligned while I sew up those two sides.
With your sewing machine, just make a straight seam all the way along the two side edges.
You can finish these seams with an outerlock seam if you like too. This step isn't necessary, but I kind like how it makes things look more professional.
I couldn't help but show it in a Natural linen just for fun! I know its obvious I am a huge fan of the Natural linen, but can you see why? I just love how it looks. I like the way it adds a rustic charm to my kitchen and home.The one pictured above is 4C22 Natural unsoftened linen, but you can look at all 4C22 linens by clicking on the button below:
The drawstring is very simple to make and is just like the type I've made in previous posts. Just cut a 1.5 inch wide strip of linen. I made mine about 18 inches long, but just make sure it is long enough (the exact length isn't so important as long as it is long enough).Fold in both of the edges in so they meet in the center. This will leave you with a 1/2 wide inch drawstring.
Sew the edge with your sewing machine. Then fold over both ends and finish them with a stitch to conceal the raw edge. I choose a blue thread for this part for a little colorful detail.
Fold the top of your bag in a 1/2 inch and then over again another inch. Sew this fold to create your drawstring. Leave a little opening at the end so you can slip your string though!
Using a safety pin or paper clip, work your string through the opening and along the space.
Now that the string is in place, just remove the paper clip or safety pin.
Adjust the drawstring so it is evenly distributed along the top and you are all done!
If you are looking for something to sew with linen, try this project out! It is easy and is something you can use for years to come. This drawstring bag style doesn't have to be used for only for bread. It is a good bag to store items in and can be used for many different purposes.
Find the 4C22 linen you need to make one by clicking on the button below:
The DIY Bread Bag in Natural linen post is also up if you want to visit that tutorial once more.
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